Seasonal Vegetable: Chanterelle Mushrooms

Chanterelles in a French wood on Halloween (Strobilomyces)

Chanterelles are part of the Cantharellus genus (some however are part of the Craterellus genus, fortunately still very edible!). They are difficult to cultivate as they form symbiotic associations with plants, making them very difficult to cultivate.  Despite this, chanterelles are one of the most recognized groups of edible mushrooms and can be found in Asia, Europe, North America and Australia. You can pick them in the woods, or buy them at the store.

 The C. cibarius or golden chanterelle if the most popular among gourmets. It's a vibrant orange or yellow in color, meaty and funnel-shaped. Underneath a smooth cap, s gill-like ridges run almost all the way down its stipe. It has a fruity smell and delicate pepper taste. Its European sibling, the girolle,  has a thicker stalk and stronger flavor.

Other popular species are the Pacific golden chanterrelle, also known as the C. formosus and Oregon's state mushroom, which grows in California and in the American Pacific Northwest; and the While chanterelle (C. subalbidus), also found in the American West
 

Nutritionally speaking, chanterelles, like other mushrooms, are low in calories (about 1.7 calories/chanterelle), carbohydrates, sodium, and fat, while being a good source of  fiber. Chanterelles contain a good amount of protein, vitamin D and vitamin Bs (riboflavin, niacin, pantothenate, and thiamine), potassium, copper and selenium.

If you go mushroom picking, look for conifers or oaks, silver birch, pine, and wild blueberry bushes. Also pay attention to moist levels on the ground as they love a mossy undergrowth, after a rainy day.

 Picking season will be worth it from late July until late Autumn in the US. In France, as early as June, in Canada, mid-July until October.

Watch out for dangerous look-alikes like the poisonous Jack O'Lantern mushroom...or the not-so-dangerous-yet-thoroughly-disappointing-when-tasted False Chanterelle (Hygrophoropsis aurantiaca). And do not eat a wild mushroom unless it's been checked by an experts, washed properly, and cooked.

Fortunately for those of us of who do not have access to the wild woods, Chanterelles are available at markets and certain supermarkets in late summer and Fall. Their prices vary but they are on the expensive end, ranging at $25-$40 per pound in the US, and 12-15 Euros/kg in France (i.e. significantly more affordable there). The good news is: they don't shrink as much as crimini, so you don't need to buy as much.

Choose Chanterelles with a spongy, firm, and fleshy cap. You can also purchase dried chanterelles at specialty stores, gourmet stores, or online. When bought fresh, they keep in the fridge 7-10 days.

Before cooking,  rinse them quickly and drain them immediately, and dry them with a clean cloth or tea towel.  To reconstitute dried chanterelles, cover them with warm pure water and let them soak one hour. 

Chanterelles are best cooked: lightly sautéed 3-5 minutes with fresh unsalted butter, shallots and parsley), or simmered in fresh cream or borth for 15 minutes covered. They go well with poultry, white fish/seafood, and eggs. If you're vegan, hazelnuts makes a good addition, as other vegetables like belgian endives , cabbage, and spinach. They can also be added to soups, or poured over grains. They're unique taste and texture are great to experiment with other things. For example, I recently used them as a topping to a raw buckweat/flax seed pizza crust.  And they're also good with just butter and sea salt on toast, or with a bit of crushed garlic (make sure it's just "a bit", as chanterelles are quickly overpowered by stronger flavors).
 

If you're 100% raw, Chanterelles can also be pickled and dried. When pickling and drying, you can add peppercorns, mustard seeds garlinc, and thyme.  Another good combo is shallots and and dill. 

And for the Pescetarian gourmet reader, here's a wonderful French recipe, adapted from Chef Pierre Lecoutre, of the Atlantide restaurant in Nantes, and more recently found at the Dôme du Marais, Paris.

Tipsy  Scallops and Chanterelles with a Celery Root Puree

This is perfect for a light dinner with friends, even if you're on a diet! It's nutritive, flavor-placked, and easy to digest. For a vegan option, replace butter with a light oil (grape seed or sunflower), and the scallops with hazelnuts (1/4 cup/person)

Ingredients for 4:

12 large sea scallops, cleaned and pat dry

1 large celery root, peeled and chopped coarsely

300g (2/3 pound) Chanterelles, rinsed and pat dry

1 glass white Muscadet white (the rest can be served with the dish)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 shallots, peeled and minced

1 pinch nutmeg

1 pinch grey sea salt

Put celery root chunks in boiling water and lower heat to low. Simmer for about 20 minutes, until the flesh breaks easily. Meanwhile, put chanterelles in a skillet on medium heat and "dry fry." This means you will not add any fat and let the water evaporate a few minutes (3-5). When enough water has evaporated, add butter and shallots. Sautee a little until all is golden, then add the wine and the scallops. Cover with a lid, then lower to a simmer and cook about 5 minutes.

Strain the celery root, keeping only a little bit of the boiling juice, and puree or mash with the ground nutmeg.

Serve puree on each plate, leaving  space in the center. Place the chanterelles and scallops in the center of the plate so they're surrounded by the puree. Pour cooking juice from the skillet over (it should be sauce-like, if it's not, let it boil on medium high in skillet while whisking for a few minutes to get rid of enough water. Sprinkle with salt and serve immediately.

Note: regarding wine, prefer an organic wine or a "vin naturel." More on this later this month since I'm still in France for another 2 weeks!

Sources:
http://www.evitamins.com/encyclopedia/assets/food-guide/chanterelle-mushrooms/~default
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chanterelles
http://www.helium.com/items/1013859-a-look-at-wild-chanterelle-mushrooms A look at wild chanterelle mushrooms
http://www.fungusamongus.com
http://www.nantes.fr